The idea of “bespoke” is not only is it hand-made, but it’s designed to fit just you and only you.
And the mark of a Savile Row tailor is that he pushes that idea to the extreme.
Left arm & right arm patterns. As the gentleman’s arm is permanently bent, I had to create a “wedge” to compensate
Here’s an example. In the photo above, I was drafting the arm patterns for a client. The gentleman, for whatever reason, had an arm that could not open fully; it was permanently bent.
If the suit was off-the-peg, there would only be one solution- take it to an alterations tailor and have him shorten the sleeve.
But with bespoke, that’s not how it’s done. What I did as a standard procedure was create a wedge, using extra paper stapled together, to create a unique pattern for the gentleman’s right arm, different from his left.
Close-up of the wedge. Three pieces in all, stapled together
Wedges are very common on Savile Row, and not just on the arms. It’s not just that no two bodies are ever identical, but no individual body is ever 100% symmetrical or perfectly shaped. Therefore the tailor must compensate accordingly.
It’s just small detail, but small details matter.
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