Savile Row & English Heritage

If the tailors on the Row are guilty of anything, is that we have failed to inform people about what bespoke is. We’ve not communicated the good information properly. It’s a double edged sword- Savile Row isn’t about changing; and why should they? They’re in the suit business and they … Continue reading

Mr. Cameron – a Story

Last Monday evening after work I was lucky enough to enjoy a couple of pints in one of the local pubs near Savile Row. I was in very good company; I was with Alan Pitt of Anderson & Sheppard (Mr Pitt made this coat, among others), and Alan Cooper of Welsh & Jeffries. Though I’ve known … Continue reading

Savile Row – Worsteds & Super Numbers

There are all kinds of cloth material out there- wool, cashmere, vicuna etc. But for the moment I just want to let you know about the most widely-used cloth in the business, the classic “Wool Worsteds”. This is the main cloth bespoke customers need to know about. These are used … Continue reading

Key People in a Tailoring Business

These are the key people in a tailoring business: Sales People They are normally not directly involved with the suit’s making, but usually have a first class knowledge of cloths and trimmings, and also are very aware of the business, the styles and details. This, of course, helps the customer … Continue reading

Savile Row – Who’s Who

Anderson & Sheppard, My former employer; where I learned the cutter’s trade from the great Mr. Hallbery. Superb clothes, great traditions and very well priced. What still makes me smile to this day is their wonderful reluctance to change. They have no web site, and they only started taking credit cards in the … Continue reading

Machine Vs Hand Canvas Debate

Following my article, Fused Vs Floating, here’s something about the machine/hand canvas debate. With bespoke Savile Row, all suits are canvassed by hand- a chap sitting there, needle and thread in hand, sewing away. However with the ready-to-wear market, there are different manufacturers out there who fit a floating canvas … Continue reading

Extra Large Doesn’t Mean Extra Charged

  A lot of larger-size gentlemen will come to Savile Row, not because they watched too many James Bond films in their youth, but simply because they’ve had so much trouble finding suitable off-the-peg options on the high street. There’s a reason, of course. The off-the-peg manufacturers like “Average”. All … Continue reading

Savile Row – How to Draft a Pattern

All Bespoke suits are cut from a hand-drafted pattern. Here are the main three main drafting methods used by the very top-end, Savile Row tailors: 1. Pattern Manipulation. This is the most common system used. A pre-existing basic block pattern (40, 42 Reg, 44 etc.) is used as a template, … Continue reading

Dressing for a Warm Climate

Michael Alden of The London Lounge recently asked me the following question: Many of our [London Lounge] readers are preparing their wardrobes for Spring and Summer. I have always felt that the Anderson & Sheppard style of tailoring always worked exceedingly well in warmer weather as long as the choice … Continue reading

Is It Anderson & Sheppard? Check the Pockets

Ok, it’s pretty obvious to all my readers I have a bit of soft spot for Anderson & Sheppard. Why? For one, that is where I was trained. Besides that, they are arguably the most successful firm on Savile Row, and without a doubt the most individual in style. So … Continue reading