Machine Vs Hand Canvas Debate

Following my article, Fused Vs Floating, here’s something about the machine/hand canvas debate. With bespoke Savile Row, all suits are canvassed by hand- a chap sitting there, needle and thread in hand, sewing away. However with the ready-to-wear market, there are different manufacturers out there who fit a floating canvas … Continue reading

Savile Row – Worsteds & Super Numbers

There are all kinds of cloth material out there- wool, cashmere, vicuna etc. But for the moment I just want to let you know about the most widely-used cloth in the business, the classic “Wool Worsteds”. This is the main cloth bespoke customers need to know about. These are used … Continue reading

Is It Anderson & Sheppard? Check the Pockets

Ok, it’s pretty obvious to all my readers I have a bit of soft spot for Anderson & Sheppard. Why? For one, that is where I was trained. Besides that, they are arguably the most successful firm on Savile Row, and without a doubt the most individual in style. So … Continue reading

Key People in a Tailoring Business

These are the key people in a tailoring business: Sales People They are normally not directly involved with the suit’s making, but usually have a first class knowledge of cloths and trimmings, and also are very aware of the business, the styles and details. This, of course, helps the customer … Continue reading

The Matching Myth

This has been the bain of bespoke tailors for generations: the little detail of matching pinstripes [and chalkstripes] through the shoulder seam of a bespoke coat. Over the years, I’ve had to constantly wrestle with customers to educate them that if you’re tailoring a hand-made coat properly, it’s practically impossible … Continue reading

Savile Row & English Heritage

If the tailors on the Row are guilty of anything, is that we have failed to inform people about what bespoke is. We’ve not communicated the good information properly. It’s a double edged sword- Savile Row isn’t about changing; and why should they? They’re in the suit business and they … Continue reading