Savile Row – Worsteds & Super Numbers

There are all kinds of cloth material out there- wool, cashmere, vicuna etc. But for the moment I just want to let you know about the most widely-used cloth in the business, the classic “Wool Worsteds”. This is the main cloth bespoke customers need to know about. These are used … Continue reading

Key People in a Tailoring Business

These are the key people in a tailoring business: Sales People They are normally not directly involved with the suit’s making, but usually have a first class knowledge of cloths and trimmings, and also are very aware of the business, the styles and details. This, of course, helps the customer … Continue reading

The Matching Myth

This has been the bain of bespoke tailors for generations: the little detail of matching pinstripes [and chalkstripes] through the shoulder seam of a bespoke coat. Over the years, I’ve had to constantly wrestle with customers to educate them that if you’re tailoring a hand-made coat properly, it’s practically impossible … Continue reading

Machine Vs Hand Canvas Debate

Following my article, Fused Vs Floating, here’s something about the machine/hand canvas debate. With bespoke Savile Row, all suits are canvassed by hand- a chap sitting there, needle and thread in hand, sewing away. However with the ready-to-wear market, there are different manufacturers out there who fit a floating canvas … Continue reading

Extra Large Doesn’t Mean Extra Charged

  A lot of larger-size gentlemen will come to Savile Row, not because they watched too many James Bond films in their youth, but simply because they’ve had so much trouble finding suitable off-the-peg options on the high street. There’s a reason, of course. The off-the-peg manufacturers like “Average”. All … Continue reading

Suits – What if You Only Have £200?

Earlier this year, I wrote “If you can’t afford bespoke”, which covers the main hierarchies of tailoring: “ready to wear”, “made to measure”, “bespoke” etc. After receiving a lot of e-mails from English Cut readers, it’s pretty obvious that there’s plenty of people out there who would love to have a handmade … Continue reading