Key People in a Tailoring Business

These are the key people in a tailoring business: Sales People They are normally not directly involved with the suit’s making, but usually have a first class knowledge of cloths and trimmings, and also are very aware of the business, the styles and details. This, of course, helps the customer … Continue reading

Mr. Cameron – a Story

Last Monday evening after work I was lucky enough to enjoy a couple of pints in one of the local pubs near Savile Row. I was in very good company; I was with Alan Pitt of Anderson & Sheppard (Mr Pitt made this coat, among others), and Alan Cooper of Welsh & Jeffries. Though I’ve known … Continue reading

Savile Row – Who’s Who

Anderson & Sheppard, My former employer; where I learned the cutter’s trade from the great Mr. Hallbery. Superb clothes, great traditions and very well priced. What still makes me smile to this day is their wonderful reluctance to change. They have no web site, and they only started taking credit cards in the … Continue reading

Machine Vs Hand Canvas Debate

Following my article, Fused Vs Floating, here’s something about the machine/hand canvas debate. With bespoke Savile Row, all suits are canvassed by hand- a chap sitting there, needle and thread in hand, sewing away. However with the ready-to-wear market, there are different manufacturers out there who fit a floating canvas … Continue reading

Extra Large Doesn’t Mean Extra Charged

  A lot of larger-size gentlemen will come to Savile Row, not because they watched too many James Bond films in their youth, but simply because they’ve had so much trouble finding suitable off-the-peg options on the high street. There’s a reason, of course. The off-the-peg manufacturers like “Average”. All … Continue reading

Savile Row – How to Draft a Pattern

All Bespoke suits are cut from a hand-drafted pattern. Here are the main three main drafting methods used by the very top-end, Savile Row tailors: 1. Pattern Manipulation. This is the most common system used. A pre-existing basic block pattern (40, 42 Reg, 44 etc.) is used as a template, … Continue reading

Dressing for a Warm Climate

Michael Alden of The London Lounge recently asked me the following question: Many of our [London Lounge] readers are preparing their wardrobes for Spring and Summer. I have always felt that the Anderson & Sheppard style of tailoring always worked exceedingly well in warmer weather as long as the choice … Continue reading