Tag Archives: africa

Cycling with zebras is not something you are likely to forget in a hurry. At Hell’s Gate National park, its high time you did away with your safari stereotype, put down the North Face khakis, slip on your trainers and get on your bike. Located just an hour and half from Nairobi, this national park is home to zebras, giraffes, elephants, birds, the endearing hyrax and a host of wild deer and antelope. While you won’t see any of the big cats that roam other parks, their absences means you are free to explore by bike. For the adventurous, there are night safaris, rock climbing and a long gorge to climb down. Be careful in the rainy seasons when flash floods can make the gorge a deadly trap. However, its just as rewarding to cycle down the dirt path, stopping to take in the rock cliffs that served as the inspiration for Lion King. After you realize that, its hard not to sing Hakuna Matata at all the warthogs. Try not to… you’ll probably offend them with your awful Kiswahili! And there’s nothing worse than an offended warthog!

Further from the lake is Mt Longonaut, an extinct volcano that towers over the flat landscape. It’s a beautiful hike that goes from the base of the volcano and then circumnavigates the crater. While no guide is necessary for the summit walk, it is worth hiring one to explore inside the crater, where thick vegetation and crumbling rock faces constantly hide the path. Book well ahead if you wish to camp in the crater and be sure to check all camping equipment is good quality as it gets cold at night. The hike is not a challenging one, but good footwear is necessary. Be aware that in the rainy seasons, flashfloods can degrade the trail further. Bring plenty of water, as there is no shade during the walk.

When your legs get tired, head towards the lake for a boat ride amongst the hippos. If you don’t fancy waiting for a boat to fill or are on a tight budget, just sit by the lake long enough, a hippo or two will drift by. Near the lake, everyone knows someone who knows someone who’s been eaten or partly eaten by hippo. After a while it gets to sound a bit like an urban legend, but the dangers are real. Be sensible and listen to your guide. Even if you don’t see a hippo, there are hundreds of birds wandering its shores, making it a favourite spot for bird watchers. Enjoy a drink (try a Stoney Tangawazi!) at one of the food stalls that dot the shores of the lake along the more popular access points or follow a random path to see locals going about their daily life in their wood salvage houses.

There is a range of accommodation options- from camping in the national park or lakeside to luxury resorts. The Sanctuary is a remarkable venue for lunch or a few nights stay. Safari animals brought in to star in the film Out of Africa were never returned to their natural habitat. Finding their new home blissfully free of predators, what was once handful of animals took the “discovery channel” route and now roam in herds across the hotel grounds. If you are on a tighter budget, the camping is excellent and there is a selection of hostels, including the YMCA. Most of the resorts will offer food at a price, but there are few local restaurants around the lake. For a good feed, at a good price, head to Naivasha Town. Meat lovers will love the disco nyama choma (barbequed meat) spot on the main street- just look out of the disco lights and listen out of the pounding bass! While hardly picturesque, this a good spot to shop for supplies, as well as catch matatus to and from Nairobi and the rest of Kenya.

Whether you are after a hippo or a nightclub in a greenhouse, you will find it around Lake Naivasha. Its close proximity to Nairobi makes it a popular spot for travellers and locals alike. It’s the perfect spot of an active weekend, followed by a luxurious massage and watching the moon rising over the lake. What are you waiting for? On yer bike…Zebras, giraffes and the odd hyrax are waiting!

 

The bus slows gently as the driver changes down through the gears; annoyingly the moment before it stops he breaks sharply and sends every passenger lurching forward from their seats. After settling back into my original position I look out the window and notice another person waiting to board. This can only happen in Africa; surely not another soul can fit on the bus.

An old man holding a rudely constructed cage made from sticks and wire, full of unhappy chickens steps on, he speaks to the driver in Shona the local language and hands him a coin. I laugh to myself when I see the old man is wearing a woolen hat and large coat, the temperature is around 38 degrees and I’m finding it unbearable in shorts and T shirt. My heart went out to the poor chickens inside their prison, their heads hanging out constantly gagging for air.

How many chickens would survive their journey? Also how many of us passengers would survive ours? The cramped hot conditions on this bus were intolerable. I felt like I was in a cage. I felt like a Chicken.

This was my first experience of public transport in Zimbabwe. My plan was to spend three months traveling throughout the country, mainly riding these small Mitsubishi buses. Unbelievably I’d soon start to look forward to boarding them; I would find pleasure in other passengers company and happily daydream whilst looking out of the window. My love for this cramped, basic transport materialised whilst on a journey to the ancient ruins of Great Zimbabwe. I knew little of these Great ruins, only that it was a place I had to visit.

Leaving Bulawayo the second largest city in the country my destination was Masvingo, which was the nearest town to the ruins in the south east of Zimbabwe. Before 1980 Masvingo was called Fort Victoria but after independence the name was changed. The driver revealed the journey was three hundred and eighty kilometers, cost eight American dollars (the currency which is now used to stabilise the economy) and took five hours. I could not complain about the price but generally drivers underestimate arrival time by a couple of hours.

The route would take me via the A6 through the small settlements of Esigodine, Mulujawane, Mbalabala, onto the A9 which crossed the beautiful Insiza river, a life line to everything in the area, through Pambuka, Zvishavane, over the Runde river and then finally through Mashava before arriving at Masvingo. These very British sounding road names need to be respected. In Zimbabwe motor vehicles have to swerve constantly for unconcerned livestock, avoid hitting potholes a grown man could get lost in and pull over what seems every 30 kilometers for tollgates. The tolls are only around one American dollar but are enforced by police armed with AK47’s, they are usually a friendly bunch but give every vehicle a close look for anything illegal, bribes are meant to be fairly common which is not surprising as the police wage is so small.

Every town and village I passed through was bustling with activity, there was always people waiting, usually women trying to sell food and drinks to the passengers. Pushing, shouting and banging on the window feebly trying to get noticed, trying to earn a living. It was very hard to look these desperate people in the eyes knowing you cannot help them all. Zimbabwe is generally a country you hear about in the news for the troubled times it has gone through. Disease and starvation has killed thousands in the last few years, with an unsupportive government it amazes me how people live with smiles on their faces, the African sense of humor never seems to evaporate. The country is changing rapidly, life is defiantly improving, people are happier but the stories of bad times are still on peoples lips. I hid these depressing thoughts in the back of my mind when finally the bus pulled into Masvingo. I knew these mental images would reappear at a later date, but for now excitement took hold as I would be visiting the Great ruins first thing in the morning.

On first sight of the ruins you cannot appreciate their magnitude. To start with all you notice is a rocky hill, but this Royal Palace takes your breath away the more you explore them. They were built in the 11th Century and shout the old Kings status and political power. The most prominent feature is the eleven-meter high walls, which extends two hundred and fifty metres, this is known as the Great Enclosure. The only other ancient structure in Africa to beat its size is the pyramids of Egypt. Every stone was laid upon one another without the use of mortar, which is very impressive as they are still as strong as the ground they were built on.

There is a theory that says the word ‘Great Zimbabwe’ comes from an old dialect of Shona, and simply means ‘large house made of stone’ which is very relevant, because the hill I first noticed is exactly that. This hill has a warren of passages throughout and Royal Quarters dug into the rock face, as well as hundreds of other little rooms that would have been used for servants, cooking and even burial. One King who ruled here was suppose to be married to over four hundred Queens, but they were given there own area to live down in a nearby Valley. It is more of an ancient city as these ruins span about two thousand acres and in its peak would have been home to eighteen thousand loyal subjects, who would have gazed at the ‘large house made of stone’ with the upmost respect, just as I did.

We have all been recently reminded of famine, how countries in the Horn of Africa have suffered one of the worst droughts in years. I just hope Zimbabwe does not repeat the heartbreaking circumstances of the last ten years and it has a positive future. I believe tourism can make a huge difference to the poor rural communities such as the ones in nearby Masvingo. Zimbabwe is a country that has so much to offer, the people are so friendly, it has amazingly diverse landscapes, shockingly beautiful wildlife and ancient fortified ruins that will keep you thinking for hours about the kings who used to rule from them.

I want to thank the people of Zimbabwe and to the people who looked after me. Hopefully one day you will be able to thank them too.

Images courtesy of William Addison-Atkinson