Silk Please

I thought I’d try to show you a dinner suit that we’ve just made. The reason is that everyone who’s looking for a dinner suit asks me what style I prefer. I can describe it easy enough but people always want a picture. So before I put this in the box I took a couple of snaps.

silk1Here at English Cut we try to give you the most honest insight as possible about about the world of bespoke Savile Row tailoring. Therefore we write the in’s and out’s of this craft as it is. When we take photographs we don’t stage them or pay a professional photographer to tale beautiful photographs of our clothes. This can sometimes be a problem because with my limited resources and time a picture of a dinner suit never really shows up any more than a black silhouette.

Alas, if you can forgive my slightly slanted pics you can see that my favourite style is a one button peak lapel with straight jetted pockets (God knows why but some people make them with flaps:() This is matched with a dress waistcoat with rolls or in other words a type of shawl collar. It’s actually quite silly that I complain that it’s hard to capture the details of a dinner suit on film because that is exactly what I try to create with such a garment. It’s not about details, in fact they should be as unobtrusive as possible. It is about the silhouette and a clean dark finish. I always try to squeeze as much shape as possible out of a dinner suit. I try to discourage use of pockets all together. As they say “If you’ve got it, flaunt it.”

silk2The picture above is also quite interesting because if you look closely the you can see that the silk facings are slightly lifted off the body. This because we use pure silk facings which you shape and steam very lightly. As they’re worn they settle and fall into the coat with a beautiful look. Again, another example of how you need to wear and let settle down any hand made Savile Row suit. The silk we use would retail (if our suppliers would sell you it) for about £110-20 per meter. Now there are some naughty people that don’t use silk but instead something that looks and dare I say it feels almost identical. The alternative has many attractions in that you can tailor it very easily and it’s very easy to press. Also it retails for about £20.00 per meter which makes it a very attractive alternative. Its proper name is polyester bonded facing. Hmmm,,, it looks as good and a lot easier to look after but do you really want polyester as part of your wardrobe?

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About Thomas Mahon

Thomas Mahon is one of the most experienced tailors on Savile Row with a list of clients including royalty, celebrities and business icons. Tom has almost thirty years experience of hand tailoring in Savile Row including five years at Savile Row’s most famous and respected tailor, Anderson & Sheppard. His clients experience the traditions and expertise of the finest bespoke tailoring available today using a soft and unstructured style typical of Anderson & Sheppard. His workshop is based at Warwick Hall in Cumbria and also meets clients at his office in London, Tom also makes regular trips to visit his growing international client base in Europe, the USA and further afield. When not creating beautiful bespoke suits, travelling to see clients or sharing his sartorial advice with his internet followers, Tom enjoys teaching sailing and is the boats officer for the Sea Cadet Corps near his Cumbria home. For the full story visit www.englishcut.com
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