Lapels Are Back

Mr Sinatra with proper lapels

Mr Sinatra with proper lapels

I don’t know if it’s just me but there’s an interesting shift in style ideas going on, certainly with a lot of our bespoke at the moment. Although many of the high street suits and including James Bond’s are going for an almost 60′s style slimmness of cut and thin lapels.

"James Bond", "007"

Daniel Craig promoting Skyfall at Dorchester Hotel

However, many of my clients are asking for wider lapels, especially in double breasted. Also, there’s a strong return to shawl collars, such as the one I’m cutting here. This is particularly unusual as it’s a shawl collar on a double breasted dinner jacket. There’s no doubt it’s a beautiful classic style but I have haven’t cut something like this in years. When I talk about the DB lapels being wider I mean really wide, almost coming out the full width of the shoulder.

Cutting double breasted dinner suit

Cutting double breasted dinner suit

It seems strange to cut these these days but I must admit when a client of mine dropped in to see me in NYC recently he did look fantastic. It’s literally time travel, back to the 30′s and 40′s. It’s not a look everyone can pull off and the rest of your dress has to match but there’s no doubting that that’s from an incredibly stylish era. All we need to do is get a run on the hat wearing then we will have gone full circle.

Basil Rathbone, a very elegant Sherlock Holmes

Basil Rathbone, a very elegant Sherlock Holmes

So you’ll have to decide if you want to be James Bond or Sherlock Holmes.. I’m begining to prefer the latter 🙂

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About Thomas Mahon

Thomas Mahon is one of the most experienced tailors on Savile Row with a list of clients including royalty, celebrities and business icons. Tom has almost thirty years experience of hand tailoring in Savile Row including five years at Savile Row’s most famous and respected tailor, Anderson & Sheppard. His clients experience the traditions and expertise of the finest bespoke tailoring available today using a soft and unstructured style typical of Anderson & Sheppard. His workshop is based at Warwick Hall in Cumbria and also meets clients at his office in London, Tom also makes regular trips to visit his growing international client base in Europe, the USA and further afield. When not creating beautiful bespoke suits, travelling to see clients or sharing his sartorial advice with his internet followers, Tom enjoys teaching sailing and is the boats officer for the Sea Cadet Corps near his Cumbria home. For the full story visit
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