Extra Large Doesn’t Mean Extra Charged


Patterns for a small & a large gentleman, side by side

Patterns for a small & a large gentleman, side by side

A lot of larger-size gentlemen will come to Savile Row, not because they watched too many James Bond films in their youth, but simply because they’ve had so much trouble finding suitable off-the-peg options on the high street.

There’s a reason, of course. The off-the-peg manufacturers like “Average”. All manufacturers make for Average. Any variation from Average costs them money, so if you’re not Mr Average, they do their best to ignore you. Shopping becomes full of unpleasant surprises.

Savile Row prides itself on minimising unpleasant surprises, but here’s one for the large folk:

With most of the tailors, including my beloved alma mater, Anderson & Sheppard, if you’re over a 44-inch chest, then expect to be charged an extra 10 per cent. Depending on the suit, that’s anywhere from £200-400. And that’s just for the basic wool worsteds. Imagine if you were ordering cashmere or vicuna…

It’s to pay for the extra cloth and stitching your large frame will require [see photo above]. I can see why the tailors do it. I can also see why some customers wouldn’t like it.

I don’t charge the extra, myself. Frankly, for every large fellow walking in, there’s probably a very small, resource-friendly chap walking in right in after him. What goes around, comes around. Horses for courses.

Besides, no tailor will offer a discount if you’re under five-foot-four, either.

(PS: Yes, I do cut for women, both large and small.)

Image reproduced from englishcut.com

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About Thomas Mahon

Thomas Mahon is one of the most experienced tailors on Savile Row with a list of clients including royalty, celebrities and business icons. Tom has almost thirty years experience of hand tailoring in Savile Row including five years at Savile Row’s most famous and respected tailor, Anderson & Sheppard. His clients experience the traditions and expertise of the finest bespoke tailoring available today using a soft and unstructured style typical of Anderson & Sheppard. His workshop is based at Warwick Hall in Cumbria and also meets clients at his office in London, Tom also makes regular trips to visit his growing international client base in Europe, the USA and further afield. When not creating beautiful bespoke suits, travelling to see clients or sharing his sartorial advice with his internet followers, Tom enjoys teaching sailing and is the boats officer for the Sea Cadet Corps near his Cumbria home. For the full story visit www.englishcut.com
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