In bespoke tailoring the main thing that gives so much pleasure for me is that I’m dealing with individuals. People who have different ideas and personalities which I have to remember and adapt my fitting and styling to so that we both achieve what we want. Yes, we’ve a house … Continue reading
Anderson & Sheppard, My former employer; where I learned the cutter’s trade from the great Mr. Hallbery. Superb clothes, great traditions and very well priced. What still makes me smile to this day is their wonderful reluctance to change. They have no web site, and they only started taking credit cards in the … Continue reading
Recently I’ve had a lot of customers asking me about the best way to press and look after their suits. So I thought I’d let you know how I do things. In an ideal world you’ve got yourself a good week’s supply of bespoke clothing. I say this not to … Continue reading
It’s not really a life changing thing but a question for you. What does your average ready made suit never have but all bespoke suits do? Well, here’s a clue. It costs nothing and takes five minutes to do and you don’t need thirty years of Savile Row tailoring experience … Continue reading
I don’t know if it’s just me but there’s an interesting shift in style ideas going on, certainly with a lot of our bespoke at the moment. Although many of the high street suits and including James Bond’s are going for an almost 60′s style slimmness of cut and thin … Continue reading
Following my article, Fused Vs Floating, here’s something about the machine/hand canvas debate. With bespoke Savile Row, all suits are canvassed by hand- a chap sitting there, needle and thread in hand, sewing away. However with the ready-to-wear market, there are different manufacturers out there who fit a floating canvas … Continue reading
Thomas Mahon of English Cut demonstrates how to press a suit jacket the way a Savile Row tailor would. Check the article What You Need To Press a Suit for further information.
Thomas Mahon of English Cut demonstrates how to press suit trousers the way a Savile Row tailor would. Check the article What You Need To Press a Suit for further information.
A lot of larger-size gentlemen will come to Savile Row, not because they watched too many James Bond films in their youth, but simply because they’ve had so much trouble finding suitable off-the-peg options on the high street. There’s a reason, of course. The off-the-peg manufacturers like “Average”. All … Continue reading
All Bespoke suits are cut from a hand-drafted pattern. Here are the main three main drafting methods used by the very top-end, Savile Row tailors: 1. Pattern Manipulation. This is the most common system used. A pre-existing basic block pattern (40, 42 Reg, 44 etc.) is used as a template, … Continue reading
Michael Alden of The London Lounge recently asked me the following question: Many of our [London Lounge] readers are preparing their wardrobes for Spring and Summer. I have always felt that the Anderson & Sheppard style of tailoring always worked exceedingly well in warmer weather as long as the choice … Continue reading
Ok, it’s pretty obvious to all my readers I have a bit of soft spot for Anderson & Sheppard. Why? For one, that is where I was trained. Besides that, they are arguably the most successful firm on Savile Row, and without a doubt the most individual in style. So … Continue reading
A lot of people use the terms “bespoke” and “made-to-measure” interchangeably. They are mistaken. ‘Bespoke’ is actually a term which dates from the 17th century, when tailors held the full lengths of cloth in their premises. When a customer chose a length of material, it was said to have “been … Continue reading
Business Me:After more than twenty years experience of hand tailoring in Savile Row, I can offer my customers the traditions and expertise of the finest bespoke tailoring available today. At the moment I’m one of the youngest tailors on Savile Row, and am lucky to have enjoyed making for an … Continue reading
Recently, I was contacted by a potential customer informing me he wanted to meet for a fitting at Savile Row, next Tuesday. This was news to me as I had never met the man, let alone run a tape around him. There was nothing to fit! However he‘s not alone in his … Continue reading
One great thing about Savile Row is there’s usually plenty of work for all the tailors. Sure, it comes and goes, but the fact is, there aren’t that many proper bespoke tailors out there, and the market, once you’ve reached a certain level, is amazingly steady and robust. So when … Continue reading
I happen to believe that a bespoke suit is worth its high asking price, or else I wouldn’t bother selling them. They look better, they fit better, and they last years longer than their competition. It’s really that simple. Even so, £2000 is a lot of money, let’s not kid … Continue reading
Earlier this year, I wrote “If you can’t afford bespoke”, which covers the main hierarchies of tailoring: “ready to wear”, “made to measure”, “bespoke” etc. After receiving a lot of e-mails from English Cut readers, it’s pretty obvious that there’s plenty of people out there who would love to have a handmade … Continue reading
When I was in our London office recently I had the chance to have a good chat with a friend who’s been on Savile Row longer than we’d both care to remember. Peter Day of Denman & Goddard was telling me all about this lovely garment that was made around … Continue reading
These shears were given to me by head cutter, Mr. Hallbery on his retirement, after forty years with Anderson & Sheppard. They were the original shears used by Mr. Anderson of Anderson & Sheppard, which first opened its doors in 1905. Before that, his teacher, Mr. Cameron gave them to Mr Hallbery, … Continue reading
Sleeve Pitch [the way a sleeve hangs], now what’s all that about? It may only be two small words describing a small detail, but it causes its fair share of panic and disappointment, both to customers and novice cutters alike. You can try your best from start to finish when … Continue reading
Savile Row Tailor Thomas Mahon of English Cut shows us how to cut a dress coat.
I had a great time on a recent working visit in the US, as usual. I was privileged to meet some wonderful people on my travels. I don’t know if it was because I was visiting both sides of the country and the middle, but everyone seemed to be trying to … Continue reading
I’ve never had the chance to go to the Oscars but our suits certainly have. However, this time it was rather special as a lovely client of ours was awarded an Oscar for the best animated short film at this years 85th Oscars in Hollywood. We’re extremely proud of Mr … Continue reading