I don’t know if it’s just me but there’s an interesting shift in style ideas going on, certainly with a lot of our bespoke at the moment. Although many of the high street suits and including James Bond’s are going for an almost 60′s style slimmness of cut and thin … Continue reading
Thomas Mahon of English Cut demonstrates how to press a suit jacket the way a Savile Row tailor would. Check the article What You Need To Press a Suit for further information.
I had a great time on a recent working visit in the US, as usual. I was privileged to meet some wonderful people on my travels. I don’t know if it was because I was visiting both sides of the country and the middle, but everyone seemed to be trying to … Continue reading
Ok, it’s pretty obvious to all my readers I have a bit of soft spot for Anderson & Sheppard. Why? For one, that is where I was trained. Besides that, they are arguably the most successful firm on Savile Row, and without a doubt the most individual in style. So … Continue reading
Business Me:After more than twenty years experience of hand tailoring in Savile Row, I can offer my customers the traditions and expertise of the finest bespoke tailoring available today. At the moment I’m one of the youngest tailors on Savile Row, and am lucky to have enjoyed making for an … Continue reading
No, I’m not giving myself a haircut. Whenever you’re watching a cutter at work, you’ll see that from time to time he’ll open his shears and briskly run the blades through the back of his hair (that’s if he’s still got any, of course). No, this isn’t some kind of … Continue reading
One of the biggest changes that has occured in Savile Row in the last few years is, sadly, the departure of cloth merchants who actually hold stock either on or around Savile Row. It’s the same old story – rent and rates have got so high that the cloth merchants … Continue reading
This little piece isn’t going to directly improve your knowledge of Savile Row tailors. But if you’re around Savile Row on a Friday evening, I know a couple of watering holes that are a real education. Tailors will frequent all the haunts of the West End. But we will always … Continue reading
Thomas Mahon of English Cut demonstrates how to press suit trousers the way a Savile Row tailor would. Check the article What You Need To Press a Suit for further information.
Two rather strange tailoring terms are “straight” and “crooked” to describe a coat. I’ll try to clarify. For what it’s worth I generally cut a “straight” coat. Which is how an Anderson & Sheppard coat was always described. Obviously there are lots of details that give a suit a certain … Continue reading
Recently I’ve had a lot of customers asking me about the best way to press and look after their suits. So I thought I’d let you know how I do things. In an ideal world you’ve got yourself a good week’s supply of bespoke clothing. I say this not to … Continue reading
This was fun. In 2005, one of my great customers, Neil Alston said he wanted something different. Really different. OK, he’s got the beautiful clothes already. But now what he wanted was something special for his 50th birthday party. The theme of the party was “Sparkly”. So what do you … Continue reading
A lot of larger-size gentlemen will come to Savile Row, not because they watched too many James Bond films in their youth, but simply because they’ve had so much trouble finding suitable off-the-peg options on the high street. There’s a reason, of course. The off-the-peg manufacturers like “Average”. All … Continue reading
All Bespoke suits are cut from a hand-drafted pattern. Here are the main three main drafting methods used by the very top-end, Savile Row tailors: 1. Pattern Manipulation. This is the most common system used. A pre-existing basic block pattern (40, 42 Reg, 44 etc.) is used as a template, … Continue reading
Michael Alden of The London Lounge recently asked me the following question: Many of our [London Lounge] readers are preparing their wardrobes for Spring and Summer. I have always felt that the Anderson & Sheppard style of tailoring always worked exceedingly well in warmer weather as long as the choice … Continue reading
This has been the bain of bespoke tailors for generations: the little detail of matching pinstripes [and chalkstripes] through the shoulder seam of a bespoke coat. Over the years, I’ve had to constantly wrestle with customers to educate them that if you’re tailoring a hand-made coat properly, it’s practically impossible … Continue reading
Earlier this year, I wrote “If you can’t afford bespoke”, which covers the main hierarchies of tailoring: “ready to wear”, “made to measure”, “bespoke” etc. After receiving a lot of e-mails from English Cut readers, it’s pretty obvious that there’s plenty of people out there who would love to have a handmade … Continue reading
Savile Row Tailor Thomas Mahon of English Cut shows us how to cut a dress coat.
I’ve never had the chance to go to the Oscars but our suits certainly have. However, this time it was rather special as a lovely client of ours was awarded an Oscar for the best animated short film at this years 85th Oscars in Hollywood. We’re extremely proud of Mr … Continue reading